Lake District

Dorothy Wordsworth cycling trail

Three cyclists explore the countryside in winter — Exploring the countryside by bike in winter | © National Trust Images/Chris Lacey

This 32-mile cycling route is from Dorothy Wordsworth's birthplace in Cockermouth to where she died at Rydal Mount near Ambleside in the Lake District, and was created to mark the 250th anniversary of her birth on 25 December 1771. Discover this trail to learn about Dorothy's life, her deep connection to the natural world and how she was a creative force in her own right.

Near to

Wordsworth House and Garden

Start point

Wordsworth House and Garden, grid ref: NY118307

Challenging route

The route is designed for adults who are confident cyclists and not beginners, and is suitable for mountain or hybrid bikes.

Address
Wordsworth House and Garden, Main Street, Cockermouth, Cumbria, CA13 9RX.
Directions via Google Maps
By train
Nearest train stations are at Penrith (30 miles from start and 28 miles from finish), at Workington (9 miles from start and 38 miles from finish), and at Windermere (35 miles from start and 6.5 miles from finish).
By bus
The X4/X5 bus links Cockermouth to Keswick via the A66 and also links to Workington and Penrith train stations. The 555 bus links Rydal to Keswick and also links to Windermere train station.
By road
Wordsworth House and Garden is on the A5086 coming into Cockermouth from the A66 junction. The trail's end location at Dora's Field, near St Mary's Church in Rydal, is found adjacent to the A591 in Rydal.
Total stages: 16
Total stages: 16
Start point
Wordsworth House and Garden, grid ref: NY118307
Stage 1
Cycle straight down Cockermouth Main Street. After crossing the bridge over the River Cocker, turn right into Market Place and then immediately right into Market Street. Follow the road to the right down to the river, signed NCR71. Continue following the NCR71 signs, crossing the footbridge and turning left along the river. Pass under two bridges and then circle round up and right onto an old railway track. On reaching a road turn left, signed NCR71, and follow it out of town 1.4 miles to a T-junction.
Birthplace of Dorothy and William Wordsworth
Dorothy Wordsworth was born on Christmas Day in 1771 at Wordsworth House, 19 months after her brother William. The small fountain opposite the house has a statue that reputedly depicts Dorothy as a young girl. It was commissioned in 1865 by Canon Rawnsley, one of the founders of the National Trust. Dorothy had a happy childhood with her brothers, especially William, until the death of their mother when she was six. She was sent to live with relatives and was never able to return home again, not even for Christmas. The 'History Wall' in Old King's Arms Lane, accessed through an archway on Main Street, gives an insight into the town and its inhabitants.
Stage 2
At the T-junction, ignore the NCR71 signs. Turn left and head towards the fells following the country road past St. Cuthbert's Church, ignoring any turn-offs. After 2 miles, at a steep hill sign turn right. Follow the country lane up the Wythop valley, for 1.6 miles, ignoring any turn-offs until the tarmac ends and at a sharp right turn to Wythop Hall.
Dorothy revisits Cockermouth
In 1795, William and Dorothy were staying with their friends, the Calverts, in Keswick. They journeyed back to Cockermouth, it was the only time Dorothy revisited the town. Her childhood home had been empty since their father's death in 1783. She wrote: '...all was in ruin, the terrace-walk buried and choked up with the old privot [sic] hedge which had formerly been most beautiful, roses and privot intermingled - the same hedge where the sparrows were used to build their nests.'
Stage 3
Continue straight on, taking the gated farm track across the fields. You are now on the old NCR71. At the corner with an NCR71 sign, at the entrances to two fields, turn right along the grassy bank. Follow this track to the gate with an NCR71 sign. Skiddaw is directly in front of you and this marks the entrance to Wythop Wood.
Stage 4
From here head downhill on a forest trail for 0.7 miles to Bassenthwaite Lake. The descent is steep and rough in places, particularly the first 300m. Pass through the gate and follow the track down into the wood. After this initial steep downhill with a sharp right bend, you reach a wider forest track. Cross this and continue down on the smaller track until the NCR71 exits the woods.
Bassenthwaite Lake
If you do not feel confident enough to handle the downhill section, it is advisable to dismount. This offers the added benefit of being able to appreciate the view towards Skiddaw and Bassenthwaite Lake, as well as the flora and fauna of the wood. This is the only body of water in the Lake District to have the word 'lake' actually in its name. Along with Derwent Water it is home to the vendace, a rare fish dating from the ice age that was once thought to be extinct.
Stage 5
The NCR71 exits the woods joining the old road to Thornthwaite and Braithwaite. Avoiding any turn-outs onto the A66, follow the old road until you reach the Middle Ruddings Hotel. Here take the off-road cycle track along the right-hand side of the A66, which goes as far as the right turn that you take into Keswick. Here it becomes a cycle lane on the road. En-route into town shortly after crossing the bridge over the River Greta, turn into the Rawnsley Centre car park on your left. Continue straight up the incline. This takes you to the gate of the privately-owned Greta Hall.
Stage 6
Return to the main road via the car park and continue into Keswick.
Dorothy's journal
The journal entry for 29 December 1801 records a walk from a stay in Keswick with Coleridge back to Grasmere: 'We turned out of the road at the second mile stone, and passed a pretty cluster of houses at the foot of St. John's Vale. The houses were among tall trees, partly of Scotch fir, and some naked forest trees. We crossed a bridge just below these houses, and the river winded sweetly along the meadows. Our road soon led us along the sides of dreary bare hills, but we had a glorious prospect to the left of Saddleback, half-way covered with snow, and underneath the comfortable white houses and the village of Threlkeld. These houses and the village want trees about them. Skiddaw was behind us, and dear Coleridge's desert home. As we ascended the hills it grew very cold and slippery. Luckily, the wind was at our backs, and helped us on. A sharp hail shower gathered at the head of Martindale, and the view upwards was very grand‚ wild cottages, seen through the hurrying hail-shower. The wind drove, and eddied about and about, and the hills looked large and swelling through the storm. O! the bonny nooks, and windings, and curlings of the beck, down at the bottom of the steep green mossy banks. We dined at the public-house on porridge, with a second course of Christmas pies.'
Stage 7
At the traffic lights, before the pedestrianised town centre, follow the C2C signs. Go left, following the road round to the right. Turn left at the next set of lights. Where this road bends right, carry straight on and then bear immediately left. Follow the C2C sign up to the front entrance and around the right-hand side of the leisure centre and then right alongside the former railway station. Continue along the Keswick Railway Cycleway and Footpath, leaving it by a short, steep track up to the right, by a signpost and map, before a bridge under the main road. At the top of the track, turn right through the gate onto the main road. Follow the NCR signs Grasmere via Stone Circle, turning left before Chestnut Hill and then immediately right, signed Castlerigg Stone Circle.
Castlerigg Stone Circle at Derwent Water, Lake District | © National Trust Images / Paul Harris
Stage 8
Continue downhill from the stone circle to a T-junction. Following the C2C71 signs for the next 1.6 miles, turn right and then right again at the next T-junction. In 250m turn right towards St John's in the Vale. Follow the road, bearing left, crossing the bridge over St John's beck, then turn right. In 100m, ignore the left turn to Matterdale and the C2C71 sign. Continue straight on cycling down the picturesque vale. After 2.3 miles, as you approach the hamlet of The Green at the end of the vale, turn right onto a track, signed Grasmere by permissive cycle way. Cross the A591 and continue straight ahead, signed Grasmere. In 0.6 miles, cross the Thirlmere dam and contour along the lake's western shore.
Thirlmere
Thirlmere today is not the valley that Dorothy Wordsworth knew, with its small lake, pastureland and the habitations of Armboth and Wythburn. A dam was built in 1894 and now the valley is submerged under the lake. Dorothy's journal entry for 7 December 1801 records making this journey on horseback: 'We determined, however, to go to Keswick if possible, and we set off a little after 9 o'clock. When we were at the top of the Raise we saw the mountains before us. The sun shone upon them, here and there; and Wytheburn vale, though wild, looked soft. The day went on cheerfully and pleasantly. Now and then a hail shower attacked us; but we kept up a good heart, for Mary is a famous jockey....We reached Greta Hall at about 1 o'clock. We parted from them at 4 o'clock. It was a little of the dusk when we set off. Cotton mills lighted up. The first star at Nadel Fell, but it was never dark. We rode very briskly. Snow upon the Raise. Reached home at 7 o'clock.'
Stage 9
After 4.5 miles at the end of Thirlmere, shortly after Steel End car park but before West Head Farm, look out for a small wooden gate on your right signed Grasmere via Dunmail Raise. From here, take the NCR6 cycle route up to the top of Dunmail Raise.
Dunmail Raise
Dorothy and William frequently walked up Dunmail Raise on their trips to Keswick. Her journal for 15 November 1800 reads: 'We both set forward at 5 o'clock. A fine wild night. I walked with W. over the Raise. It was starlight. I parted with him very sad, unwilling not to go on. The hills, and the stars, and the white waters, with their ever varying yet ceaseless sound, were very impressive.'
Stage 10
Be sure to exit the cycle track as you reach the start of a short section of dual carriageway to be on its southbound side for the 2.5 mile downhill on the A591 to Grasmere, turning right into Grasmere at the very bottom by the Swan Inn.
Stage 11
After turning right, follow the road until you come to the third turning on your right, signed Allan Bank. Follow the signs up to the house where Dorothy lived.
Allan Bank
After William married in 1802, Dove Cottage became too small for his growing family and their many guests. In 1808, Dorothy along with her brother, his wife, three children, sister-in-law and initially friends Thomas de Quincy and Samuel Coleridge moved to Allan Bank. In 1813, after two more children, they began finding the house overcrowded, damp and with chimneys that smoked too much. The Wordsworths moved to Rydal Mount.
Stage 12
Return to the village. At the T-junction follow the B5287 into the village (avoiding Red Bank), following the road round to the left and then to the right, until you come to St. Oswald's Church on your left.
Stage 13
Follow the road, Stock Lane, out of the village. At the roundabout with the A591, go straight across and up the hill to Dove Cottage.
Stage 14
Follow the road uphill from Dove Cottage. Take the steep hill on the left signed 'No through road for motor vehicles after 1/2 mile'. The road ends by a house and tarn, and narrows to become a bridleway known locally as the Coffin Route.
Coffin Route
This was used to carry coffins by hand from Rydal to Grasmere. As the church at Rydal was built on rocky ground there were no burials there, so the Wordworths are buried in Grasmere. This might have been Dorothy's last journey from the house where she died to her final resting place at St Oswald's, but the household accounts show a bill for the hire of a horse-drawn cart so it's more likely the road was used.
Stage 15
Follow the Coffin Route for 1.2 miles to Rydal Mount house. A third of the way along there is a 250m section where both riders of horses and bikes need to dismount.
Rydal Mount
When you dismount, enjoy the views over Rydal Water and the final section of bridleway to Rydal Mount. The Wordsworths moved here in 1813 as tenants of Lady le Fleming, owner of nearby Rydal Hall. It was to be their home for the rest of their lives. Here they wrote and received many visitors. William designed the layout of the gardens himself and Dorothy spent many a happy hour in them. A serious illness in 1829 left Dorothy in poor health for the rest of her life. She outlived William by five years, cared for by his wife Sarah until her death in 1855. The house is currently owned by descendants of the Wordsworth family, and open to visitors.
Stage 16
Taking the road to the right after Rydal Mount brings you down to Rydal Church. Dismount and walk through the churchyard to Dora's Field.
Dora's Field
The chapel of St. Mary's was built in 1824 by Lady le Fleming on a site chosen by William Wordsworth. Dorothy worshipped here and their family pew is at the front of the church. When Lady le Fleming planned to give the tenancy of Rydal Mount to a relative, William bought the field behind the church and even had plans drawn up for a house, before Lady le Fleming changed her mind. Wordsworth gave the field to his daughter Dora, named for her aunt Dorothy. When Dora died of tuberculosis in 1847 at the age of 42, the family planted hundreds of daffodil bulbs here in her memory, and this place is now known as Dora's Field.
End point
Dora's Field
Trail map
Dorothy Wordsworth cycle trail map | © Crown copyright and database rights 2013 Ordnance Survey
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Main Street, Cockermouth, Cumbria, CA13 9RX

01900824805

wordsworthhouse@nationaltrust.org.uk

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Near to

Start point

Trail information

Difficulty*

Full trail

Challenging route

Getting here

Facilities

Terrain and elevation

Trail route

Total stages: 16

Total stages: 16

Start point

Stage 1

Point of interest

Stage 2

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Stage 3

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Stage 4

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Stage 5

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Stage 6

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Stage 7

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Stage 8

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Stage 9

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Stage 10

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Stage 11

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Stage 12

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Stage 13

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Stage 14

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Stage 15

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Stage 16

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End point

Trail map

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