Morwenstow walk: Reverend Hawker country
Explore the most northerly National Trust area in Cornwall in a parish made famous by the eccentric Reverend R S Hawker of Morwenstow. This is a walk of contrasts with dramatic, towering cliffs, sheltered wooded valleys, wildlife-friendly organic farmland and the opportunity to visit one of the Trust’s smallest buildings.
Map
Start:
Rectory tea-room, grid ref: SS205153
1
From the Rectory Farm tea-rooms, pass through the lychgate into the churchyard. Taking the path to the right of the vicarage, descend into Morwenna Valley.
Morwenstow church and vicarage
The Church of St John the Baptist and St Morwenna is an ancient church dedicated to saints of both Saxon and Celtic culture. Its most famous incumbent, Reverend Hawker, was the vicar from 1834 to 1874. Hawker built his rectory below the church in Victorian Gothic style and, rather uniquely, had the chimneys built to imitate other church towers. Its now privately owned, but look out for the figurehead of the Caledonia, in the churchyard, which was wrecked in 1842, the figurehead marks the mass grave of its crew.
2
Turn left along the valley at the waymarker signed Coast Path. This path was opened to the public under the farms Countryside Stewardship Scheme. Continue along the length of the valley, walking through woodland, scrub and then open grassland to reach Vicarage Cliff and the coastal path.
Vicarage Cliff views
The coastline here at Vicarage Cliff, where the cliffs rise up to 450ft (137m) high, is stunning. Look across Cotton Beach to Higher Sharpnose Point in the distance.
3
Turn left at the path and ascend the cliff path to the farmland plateau above.
4
On reaching a kissing gate there's an option to turn left and return to the tea-rooms, or, continue along the cliff tops until you reach a walled entrance marked Hawkers Hut. The hut is just below you, down some slate steps. This intriguing little building was reputedly built by Reverend Hawker out of driftwood from shipwrecks. He would sit here and meditate, smoke pipes of opium and write poetry. For decades people have carved initials and messages in the timbers some are well over 100 years old.
5
Continue on the coast path, passing another gate into the next valley: Tidna Shute. Alternatively, for a slightly shorter route, take the path to the left to return to the tea-rooms.
6
Turn inland at the base of the hill. The farmland and valleys of maritime heathland are important areas for a number of rare species. See farmland birds and butterflies in the hedges and heath and look out for grey seals in the water far below, while kestrels and peregrines hover around the cliffs. The farm has recently undergone conversion to organic status.
Woodland valleys
The sheltered broadleaf woodlands in the valleys are a haven for wildlife. You can often see branches covered in lichens and mosses; a sign of the clean unpolluted Atlantic air. There's a wonderful flush of colour from spring and early summer flowers, both here and on the cliffs.
7
Turn left at the waymarker and enjoy a walk through the Tidna Valley and woodlands until you reach a waymarker directing you back uphill toward Rectory Farm.
Rectory Farmhouse
This National Trust farmhouse dates back to the 14th century. It now houses a tea-room which is well worth a visit, not just for the delicious homemade food, but also to see its fascinating antiques and artefacts.
8
Crossing several stiles and a farm track you will see a sign for the tearoom where you started.
End:
Rectory tea-room, grid ref: SS205153
