What's in season: April
This month it's all about rhubarb
The origin of cultivated rhubarb (Rheum x hybridum) is a bit of a mystery, but it's thought to be a hybrid of wild plant species native to Central Asia and Siberia.
What we do know for certain is that historically, rhubarb was valued for its medicinal properties long before it was used in cooking. It was grown for thousands of years in China, where, according to the BMC (BioMed Central), it was not only used as antibacterial and anti-inflammatory but also to treat other conditions including cancer.
Rhubarb reached Europe in the 14th century and became a very valuable commodity alongside other traded goods such as silk and pearls. Its popularity grew rapidly in the late 18th and 19th centuries as better varieties were developed and sugar (used to sweeten it) became less expensive.
Growing rhubarb in the dark
The Victorians discovered that growing rhubarb in dark sheds produced the finest tender stalks. The crop was also harvested by torchlight. There was such a high demand for the vegetable that the ‘rhubarb triangles’ were formed in the cities of Wakefield, Leeds and Morley. These produced 90 per cent of the world’s so-called ‘forced’ rhubarb. This growing method, designed to encourage the early growth of tender stems by covering the crowns, is still used today.
Back in fashion
Rhubarb fell out of favour during the mid to late 20th century, when it was associated with dull and stodgy deserts. However, it’s now enjoying a revival with interest from growers and cooks alike. There are many traditional and modern varieties to choose from. We care for 130 different types of rhubarb that make up the UK's national collection at Clumber Park in Nottinghamshire.