What's in season: January
This month it's all about leeks
The humble leek has a long and distinguished history in Britain. Its wild ancestors grow in the eastern Mediterranean but, like many garden crops, centuries of selection and cultivation have transformed its appearance and flavour to what we know today.
Leeks were probably introduced to our shores by the Romans to liven up the rather dull native diet. How it became the national symbol of Wales is uncertain, but it is thought to go back to Celtic tradition, long before its association with St David’s Day. The daffodil became an occasional leek-substitute, perhaps for its similar leaf arrangement but more attractive flower.
The species Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum is a close relative of the onion and a member of the lily family. The edible part of the plant is a long bundle of leaf sheaths that resemble a stem.
Nowadays there are hundreds of varieties of leeks adapted to a wide range of climates and selected for their subtle and refined flavours. For most people it is a reliable winter vegetable for tasty soups and stews but it is also a favourite with competitive amateur growers who concoct secret recipes for feeding their prize-winning specimens. The world record currently stands at over 10.7 kg in weight.