Landmark act of generosity secures home of London's oldest restaurant for the future

34-35 Maiden Lane houses Rules, London’s oldest restaurant that has stood at the heart of British cultural life since 1798.

The remarkable gift will protect the building and its historic collection and ensure its stories can be shared with new generations. The ongoing charitable income that is part of the gift will go into vital conservation work each year.

Rules began as an oyster house when it was first opened by Thomas Rule and quickly grew to become the gathering place of 19^th and 20^th-century luminaries. In its 228 years, it has seen the reign of 10 monarchs and the service of over 40 prime ministers.

Now the Covent Garden building will be cared for on behalf of the nation, after the generous gift to the National Trust by its owner of 40 years, J-P Mayhew.

Hilary McGrady, Director-General of the National Trust, said: “This place is an outstanding piece of living history, with its corners where kings dined and writers and politicians plotted, and the traditions it kept alive through wars and upheaval. It has defied the odds to be standing here today, doors still open and treacle sponge still on the menu.

“Mr Mayhew's extraordinary generosity, and the care he has poured into Rules over many decades, mean this beloved place has a future measured not in years but generations. His gift ensures that one of London's great living institutions will remain part of the city's cultural life, with all its stories, traditions and character intact.”

The building at 34-35 Maiden Lane is a rare example of living heritage where both the historic structure and its original use remain intact. The interior is exceptionally well preserved and has seen more than two centuries of continuous restaurant operation. Rules is also the last survivor of a group of renowned London restaurants, which included the Trocadero Restaurant, the Mirabelle and Le Gavroche.

Rules’ list of famous diners is extensive – from King Edward VII who would rendezvous with his mistress at the restaurant, to writers, artists and thinkers including Laurence Olivier, William Makepeace Thackeray, Charles Dickens, Charlie Chaplin, Ava Gardner, Dame Vera Lynn and Liza Minnelli. In more recent years, Harrison Ford, Madonna and David Bowie have dined there.

There are rooms named after John Betjeman, who gave an impassioned speech in defence of the restaurant when Maiden Lane was at risk of redevelopment, and Graham Greene, who ate there every year on his birthday and featured it in his novel The End of the Affair. The plate that inspired the line "Is it possible to fall in love over a dish of onions?” was on the menu for many years.

Today, the restaurant business is owned by Ricky McMenemy, who has worked at the restaurant for 35 years, and will now become a commercial tenant of the National Trust. The annual rent will provide income for the charity and will be used to support its vital work.

J-P Mayhew, who has donated the building to the Trust, said: “There are few restaurants in the world that have endured the test of time like Rules. With many years of hard work, and some extraordinary strokes of luck, it has survived everything from redevelopment plans and changing tastes to the Blitz.

“When John Betjeman defended Rules from the GLC’s plans to turn the Strand into a dual carriageway in 1971, he spoke not only of the paintings, sculptures, stained glass and red plush seats, but of its “invisible atmosphere”.

“My gift to the National Trust is in answer to that appeal. The Trust will protect this place in a way that no-one else could, safeguarding its bricks and mortar, its famous interior and its invisible atmosphere too. I am grateful to them for believing in this idea and for protecting this building and two centuries worth of stories for people to enjoy forever.”

The gift also includes historic collection items that tell the rich cultural history of Rules. These include visitor books, menus, caricatures, photographs, stained glass and signs that reflect the personalities, conversations and traditions that have shaped the restaurant over time.

Since the 19^th century Rules has maintained the tradition of English ‘country house’ cuisine – surviving the privations of World War II and rationing, when much of it was lost in Britain. Its culinary customs have been maintained by head chefs, many of whom have developed prominent careers and been influential in the promotion of English cuisine. 

The Trust cares for 39 historic pubs, which continue to operate today, including the George Inn in Southwark and the Crown Bar in Belfast. 34-35 Maiden Lane will be the first building in the Trust’s care to house an historic restaurant that is still in operation.

Ricky McMenemy, Proprietor of Rules Restaurant, said: “We are delighted the National Trust has taken ownership of 34-35 Maiden Lane, home to Rules Restaurant for over two centuries. As an independent business, it gives us both the security and peace of mind that our home will be in very good hands and be protected and secure going forward. Having already established a very amicable working relationship with the Trust, we look forward to another two centuries in this, our home.”

The move comes at a time when many iconic central London buildings are at risk from redevelopment pressures and economic challenges.

For more information, visit: nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/London/34-35-maiden-lane

To book a table at Rules, visit: Rules.co.uk