New exhibition explores how fashion in art expressed power and personality - and is inspiring a new generation

From 2 May until 2 November, Dress to Impress, a new exhibition presented throughout the house, delves into the way people dressed and explores the coded messages about power, politics, and personality. It looks both at dress and social influence and includes historic fashion displays, new designs, photographs, films and talks.

Paintings in the exhibition include works recently conserved by the National Trust’s Royal Oak Foundation Conservation Studio at Knole, such as a glamorous portrait by Johann Zoffany of Eva Maria Garrick, 18th century dancer and wife of acclaimed actor David Garrick, dressed in shimmering silk for a masquerade ball.

Meanwhile, late 18th and early 19th century portraits of children by Henry Raeburn and Thomas Lawrence look at how brothers and sisters were depicted, and how these became less formal in their dress, poses and interactions between siblings.

Photography, and how it captured the way people dressed, is explored with focus on the work of early 20th century photographer Alice Hughes. Hughes photographed women and children exclusively, including royalty, and her distinctive style became the craze, with flattering poses and delicate details of dress.

A collaboration with Wimbledon College of Arts, part of University of the Arts London (UAL), showcases the next generation of costume design talent. Eleven final year students on the College’s prestigious BA (Hons) Costume for Theatre and Screen course have designed costumes inspired by, and some meticulously reconstructing, the fancy dress attire featured in Margaret Greville's photograph album of the 1897 Devonshire House Ball. This opulent event was considered the social highlight of the year, graced by royalty and the aristocracy.

Loans from museums around the country feature in the exhibition:

• Margaret Greville’s relationship with Queen Mary is notable through the display of her royal friend’s silk embroidered kimono, on loan from the Olive Matthews Dress Collection, Chertsey Museum.
• A child’s shirt and breeches, on loan from the Alasdair Peebles collection, are displayed next to the conserved portrait of The Paterson Children by Henry Raeburn; and a recreated red jacket by Graves Historical Uniforms.
• An 18th century waistcoat and skirt on loan from the Fashion Museum, Bath, is displayed with the portrait of Eva Maria Garrick.
• A man’s fancy dress ball costume, a rare survival from the Victorian period, on loan from the Goodwood Collection.

Other contemporary collaborations offer a film by Serena Dyer, dress historian and author, showing how to dress like a Georgian, and a ruff commissioned from TV and film costume creator Marija Radojicic.

Dress from the National Trust’s collections include a coronation robe from Ickworth celebrating Margaret Greville’s attendance at three coronations, and a Parisian 1920s silk and sequinned ‘flapper’ dress from Scotney Castle.
Polesden Lacey’s Volunteer Textile Group have recreated the dress and opera cloak worn by Margaret Greville in the full-length portrait of her by Carolus-Duran. And hands-on interpretation has been made for the exhibition with fabric swatches and drawings.

Events include talks and tours with fashion historians and activities focused on designing and dressmaking, exploring fabrics of the day. For families, there are sketchbooks, dressing up opportunities and a selfie station for sharing images on social media.

National Trust Curator, Alice Strickland, said: “We can’t wait for visitors to experience this journey through fashion and accessories in art. This is not only an opportunity to see gorgeous historic garments and artworks on display but to enjoy films and talks, and to get playful, with replica dress to try on and a chance to pose for your own photographs in Alice Hughes’ recreated photographic studio.”

Alice continues: “We are delighted there is a modern twist on the exhibition by welcoming students from Wimbledon College of Arts with their work. It is exciting to see how this next generation of fashion designers have been inspired by the Devonshire House Ball and the fabulous costumes that were worn there.”

Natalia Stewart, Course Leader, BA (Hons) Costume for Theatre and Screen, Wimbledon College of Arts, UAL, said: “We are thrilled to present the incredible work of Wimbledon College of Arts' BA (Hons) Costume for Theatre and Screen students at Polesden Lacey’s ‘Dress to Impress’ exhibition. This marks Wimbledon College of Arts’ first collaboration with the National Trust, and we look forward to sharing the creativity, imagination and technical expertise of our students.

“Our third-year students, specialising in costume design and interpretation, have dedicated themselves to an in-depth exploration of historical dress, digging deep into the past, to perfect the technical details that would have been seen at the time of the Devonshire House Ball in 1897. We cannot wait to showcase our students’ work in the wonderful setting of Polesden Lacey.”

The costumes created by the students for the exhibition can also be seen at Wimbledon College of Arts’ free in person graduate show from the 14-21 June.

Dress to Impress coincides with the publication of ‘100 Things to Wear’, the next title in the National Trust’s popular book series.