Flapper Fashion at Scotney Castle

11 September - 1 November | 11am - 4pm

What started as a costume review project into Scotney Castle's vast costume collection became a remarkable discovery of 1920s and 1930s couture fashion. Dresses by some of Europe's leading early 20th-century fashion houses, including Jeanne Paquin, Callot Soeurs and Gustave Beer, were identified and matched to historic photographs of Scotney's last private owner, Betty Hussey, and her mother, Maud Kerr-Smiley.

The women behind the dresses

Born Maud Simpson, Maud was a prominent figure in London's social scene during the 1920s and 1930s. She is said to have played a key role in introducing her brother Ernest and his wife, the American socialite Wallis Simpson, into London's high society. Her diaries record regular visits to fashionable hotels and restaurants including Claridge's, The Ritz and The Dorchester, alongside theatre trips, parties and social engagements with family and friends.

Naturally, these occasions required a wardrobe to match. The couture garments now on display in the Mansion House offer a glimpse into the elegance and glamour of Maud's world, revealing the craftsmanship and exclusivity of the fashions worn by society women between the wars.

Many of the dresses were later preserved by Maud's daughter, Betty Hussey. Stored in the Mansion House attic for decades, these remarkable garments remained largely untouched until the recent costume review project brought their stories back to light.

National Trust's only Schiaparelli dress

Taking centre stage is an Elsa Schiaparelli ensemble dating from 1936. Consisting of a simple black silk slip worn beneath a sheer metallic brocade overlay woven with silvery-gold thread, it showcases the innovation and craftsmanship that made Schiaparelli one of the most influential designers of the 20th century. The overlay fastens with a zip running up the centre back to the neck, a fashionable novelty in 1930s couture that allowed women to dress without the assistance of a maid.

A diary entry dated 18 November 1936, which simply notes "Schiaparelli" in red ink, helped the collections team connect the ensemble to Maud Kerr-Smiley. The discovery is of national and international significance and represents the only Schiaparelli garment in the National Trust's collections.