Alfriston Clergy House is a Grade II* listed building which was built as residence for the parish priest of the neighbouring 14th century St Andrew’s Church. The house is over 600 years old and one of a handful remaining Wealden Houses in Alfriston village. The structure of the Clergy House was intended to display the owner’s wealth and significance, certainly a high contemporary standard of living. Through a series of changes and renovations across the centuries it has become the picturesque house seen today in its idyllic setting with views across the River Cuckmere.
Saved for the nation
Alfriston Clergy House in East Sussex was the first building saved forever for the nation by the National Trust. This early 15th-century Wealden hall-house was bought as a restoration project in 1896 by the newly formed National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty.
Construction of the house
The plan is simplicity itself: a central communal hall open to the rafters, flagged to the east by the priests rooms, comprising of a living room and a bedroom with lavatory (garderobe) attached. At the opposite end of the house were two floors of humbler service rooms were food would have been prepared and stored and the servants would have slept above.
The timber-framed building was built predominantly of young oak which we now know, from dendrochronology work, were felled between 1399 to 1407. The house was built for the priest of St Andrew's Chruch by Michelham Priory who held the advowson at that time.
A priest's residence
The Clergy House was used as a residence for Alfriston’s parish priest until Michelham Priory was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1537. Then the Clergy House was granted to Thomas Cromwell until he was attained for treason in June 1540 when it became part of the estate of Anne of Cleeves. After her death in 1557 it became the property of the Church of England until it was sold to the National Trust in 1896. The charity’s experiences in conserving and finding a use for the building helped to shape the organisation’s future operations and purpose. Originally rented out to tenants, the house and gardens were opened as a visitor attraction in 1977.
For over 120 years the exact date of Alfriston Clergy House was a mystery. In 2019 tree ring dating known as ‘dendrochronology’ finally solved the mystery.
Studying the rings
The National Trust commissioned the Oxford Dendrochronology Laboratory to sample the building’s timbers. Dendrochronology involves taking cores of wood (which look like cigars) from buildings and then studying the tree rings to provide accurate dates for when the tree was felled.
The rings can then be matched to chronologies of sampled trees to establish the years in which this example was growing and when it was felled. Each ring marks a complete cycle of seasons, or one year, in the tree's life. Dendrochronology is useful for determining the precise age of samples of wood, especially those that are too recent for radiocarbon dating.
The conclusion
The sampling for Alfriston concluded that the trees used to build the original house were felled between 1399 and 1407.
'We’ve always known that in later years it had been a house for the clergy, this accurate dating changes our long-assumed position that it was originally built for a farmer. Instead, we now see the house being used as a vicarage from when it was first built in around 1400.’
– George Roberts, curator for Alfriston Clergy House
A timeline of Alfriston Clergy House
1350-1500
Medieval Clergy House
A rare surviving example of a priest's dwelling built in the 15th century during medieval times and the reign of Richard II.
1399-1407
According to a dendrochronology report carried out in 2019 the house was built during this period for the priest of St Andrew's church who was appointed by Michelham Priory.
The design of Afriston Clergy House consisted of four bays including the double-heighted hall and with two staircases, one in the parlour and one in the hall.
1500-1600
Dissolution of the monasteries
1536
Dissolution of the monastries begins with Michelham Priory being dissolved a year later.
1540
After the execution of Thomas Cromwell, the ‘living of Alfriston’ becomes part of Anne of Cleves’s estate, forming her divorce settlement from Henry, along with Anne of Cleves house in Lewes (not NT).
c.1550
Alterations were made by the Crown and the Church of England. First floor inserted. Old service end and west staircase demolished. Two-bay cross wing erected, creating new rooms on both floors. Staircase likely to have been built in the southern bay of the cross wing. New chimneys inserted on the southern wall of the hall, with the eastern end likely to have become a service space, and the new parlour and parlour chamber.
1557
The ‘living of Alfriston’ reverts to the Church of England on Anne of Cleves’ death.
1593
Hugh Walker was appointed vicar.
1600-1895
Over 200 years of change
During 1600, the house was home to the vicar Rev. Hugh Walker, who had at least seven children. Alterations were made to accommodate his large family and many children.
The window openings were glazed above the original entrance at the lower end of the hall, on the ground floor eastern wall, and on the first floor in the cross wing’s northern façade. This was a sign of wealth in those days. It is conceivable that the Clergy House had at least eight rooms following alterations. With the possibility of the first floor in the hall being sub-divided it was certainly a very impressive building.
1750
The Clergy House is subdivided into two cottages and let out. South bay of cross wing demolished and replaced with a lean-to along the whole southern length of the building. Bread oven is likely to have been added into the western chimney. These alterations were made to allow for more than one family to live here.
1801
The Clergy house's longest tennant Harriet Pierson born.
1841
Census shows Harriet Coates (nee Pierson) living at the clergy house with her husband John Coates and their daughter Barbara
1874
Ordnance Survey map appears to show an orchard as well as functional garden areas, plus paths leading to the drainage ditch.
1879
Permission to demolish the Clergy House granted, but not carried out, apparently due to its picturesque character and archaeological interest.
1881
Harriet Coates, now 80, still a tenant at the Clergy House.
1883
Harriet Coates, the last non-National Trust tenant, dies.
1889
Rev Frederick William Beynon appointed vicar. The floor inserted in the hall c.1550 is removed by Beynon.
1890
Successful appeal by Beynon for support to restore the Clergy House made to Sussex Archaeological Society, reported in the Sussex Advertiser. Owen Fleming draws up plans to convert the building into a community resource. Building made watertight and winter reading room opened in part of the building.
1891
Beynon's scheme came to the Society for the Protection of Ancients Buildings (SPAB) attention
1893
Fundraising leaflet published by Beynon. Eastern end of the building secured, but repairs required to the central part of the roof, which had recently collapsed. Photographs suggest the roof was repaired.
1894
SPAB felt that they could no longer support the work and encourgaed Beynon to reach out to the National Trust as a potential purchaser of the building, several months beofre it was formerly formed.
1896
The National Trust steps in
1895
The Trust considers acquisition of the Clergy House. SPAB support Trust acquisition. The Trust’s Octavia Hill asks SPAB for help in identifying an architect.
1896
The National Trust acquires the Clergy House for £10. Architect Alfred Hoare Powell writes up the necessary repairs. The Trust accepts an estimate of £350 for the works, and commits to fundraising, led by Octavia Hill. Hill proposes the Trust buy the orchard. Conservation work begins around August, on the front wall and hall.
1897
Fundraising proves challenging, but a donation of £50 from the Duke of Devonshire is made. Mrs Marchant tenants two rooms, and Lionel Curtis and Max Balfour the other half of the Clergy House. Works pause over the winter of 1896/7 and fundraising continues.
1898
Charles Ashbee and Janet Forbes start to visit the Clergy House, including on their honeymoon. On one occasion they use apples from the orchard to decorate the hall. The Trust agrees a 21-year lease of the garden for £6p.a. The Trust accepts stonemason James Andrews’ offer to produce a commemorative plaque, designed by Powell.
Works continue, believed to include the insertion of two staircases, a chimney at the east end and doors in the east and south walls of the lean-to. Lean-to ceilings repaired. The medieval door in the hall appears to have been closed. The partial boarding of the roof removed and entire roof of the main house re-thatched. It is likely the common rafters were replaced.
Early 1900s
Links to the Arts and Craft movement
1903
Muirhead Bone tenants the Clergy House and draws it. A painting of Bone and his family at the Clergy House is made by Francis Dodd.
1907
Charles Aitken (former director of the Tate Gallery) and Sir Robert Witt (Co Founder of the Courtauld Institute of Art), tenant the Clergy House, making it a destination in the art world.
1909
An Ordnance Survey (OS) map shows a terrace created at the back of the Clergy House by the Witts & Aitken.
1910-1915
Garden Room constructed, commissioned from Lionel Pearson (famous British archItect) by the Witts.
1928
John Witt, son of Robert and Mary, holidays at the Clergy House. The Trust makes a failed attempt to buy the garden, an elaborate layout for which, in keeping with the arts and crafts garden style, has been established, seen in the 1928 OS map. Roof ridge replaced. As well as the Garden Room, the OS map shows the outside toilet moved to the north-east corner of the garden.
1936
Advertising for tourists to visit the Clergy House installed by the Witts in the village. Garden wall, fence and rotten doors repaired. Lead flashing added to kitchen chimney.
1938
Infestation of death watch beetle discovered. The treating of the building was overseen by the architect John Eric Miers MacGregor who was already gaining recognition as a leading conservation architect and for his work with Ferguson's gang.
1950
The National Trust buys the garden for £225, funded by the artist and Witts personal secretary Thyra Creyke-Clark.
1952
Creyke-Clark tenants the Clergy House after the Witts’ deaths. The local council urges the Trust to open more of the Clergy House.
1974
Garden room and garden ornaments acquired by the Trust on Creyke-Clark’s death.
1975
Tenancy of the Clergy House advertised for £350p.a. plus at least £12,000 for improvement works.
1976-1978
Modernisation
1976
Garden surveyed by the Trust, showing the garden to have been laid out much as it had been at the start of the century. The steps connecting the upper and lower garden areas are shown. Additional features, such as an ornamental urn as a focal point, added. Graham Stuart Thomas (National Trust Garden Advisor) recommends replacing the roses with hybrid tea varieties and adding dianthus under the box trees. Mentions of the Irish yew sentinels appear frequently in reports from 1976 onwards.
Preparation for opening to the public .
1977
Shop opens located within the house. Works continue, with electrification in the house, and joining up to local sewer. Rammed chalk floor in the hall raised and sealed with sour milk.
1978
When the garden first opens to the public, vegetables are still being grown in rows in open ground.
Discover more at Alfriston Clergy House
Find out when Alfriston Clergy House is open, how to get here, the things to see and do and more.
Discover a classic cottage garden with perennial borders, topiary and an orchard. This compact, peaceful garden is a great place to unwind and relax at any time of year.