Fine Fortifications trail
Although peaceful today, Bembridge and Culver Downs were once a scene of much military activity. We suggest you book a visit to Bembridge Fort on a Tuesday then afterwards follow this easy and fairly flat walk along the top of the downs to gain a fascinating insight into the Isle of Wight’s role in wartime defence and intelligence. Otherwise inspect the fort from the outside, since it is not open to the public. The walk is suitable for most wheelchairs and offers spectacular views over Sandown Bay, Whitecliff Bay and Brading Haven.
Map
Elevation
Start:
National Trust car park at Bembridge Fort, grid ref: SZ625859
1
From the car park, return to Bembridge Fort by following the road. Note that the Fort is open for pre-booked tours only since it is not open to the public. We offer guided tours every Tuesday from April to October. Additional weekday tours for groups of 10 plus may be possible on request. Please call 01983 741020 to book, or email ‘isleofwight@nationaltrust.org.uk’. The tour is free to National Trust members and chargeable to non-members, but it is well worth it.
Bembridge Fort
Bembridge Fort was built in the 1860s on the highest point of Bembridge Down – the Yarborough Monument had to be moved. This hexagonal fort with its dry ditch was built at about the same time as the Needles Old Battery on the orders of Lord Palmerston, the Prime Minister, part of a chain of defences designed to protect the naval dockyards at Portsmouth against attack by Napoleon III. They became known as Palmerston’s Follies, because the French invasion never came and were never used.
2
On leaving the Fort, turn left in the direction of the car park, but follow the grassy path running alongside the road on its left as far as you can. At the field boundary the path cuts through the hedge back onto the road. Cross straight over the road, go through the opposite hedge and turn left, following the grassy path which runs parallel to the road on its right. This path rejoins the road at a cattle grid just before the Culver Haven Inn. Go through the gate to the side of the cattle grid and follow the tarmac road past the inn to the car park marking the site of the old signal station, where there is an interpretation panel.
Culver’s Military History
The signal station was one of a series of wireless stations built on the south coast by Marconi, the inventor of the radiotelegraph. In World War II the Culver station was used for intelligence gathering due to its good reception, and early radar. It was staffed by Wrens billeted in the nearby coastguard cottages. Elsewhere on Culver Down look out for gun platforms and War Department boundary stones (indicated by WD), as well as fence posts, trenches and radar mast anchor rings.
3
Continue along the road to the start of the one-way system and follow it left, down to the car park with views to Whitecliff Bay and Brading Haven. Proceed on to Culver Battery where there is another interpretation panel.
Culver Down Battery
Culver Down Battery was built in 1906 as part of a series of batteries guarding the Solent approaches from naval attack. Two 9.2 inch guns could fire as far as Spithead. The battery was closed in 1956 after service throughout both World Wars, and all that remains are the gun emplacements. And the difference between a fort and a battery? A fort commands a group of two or more batteries and has a permanent garrison, whereas a battery would normally have no permanent troops.
4
Continue along the road to meet the outward route. Retrace your steps along the road past the inn, noting the War Department boundary stones and perhaps some rusting metal rings set in concrete which used to support the war-time radar masts.
Military structures
Beacons like this one on Culver Down were part of a medieval south coast early warning system designed to respond to the threat of French invasion. They were updated prior to the Spanish Armada and used to pass messages, by way of a flame, to and from the mainland. Our beacon was one of a chain of several thousand beacons across the country that were lit on 4 June 2012 as part of the celebrations to mark the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.
5
Go through the gate alongside the cattle grid then leave the road on the left and follow the grassy ridge-top path that you came along, keeping the hedge and the road on your immediate right. Don’t cross the road this time but continue directly ahead and back to the car park.
What a vantage point
Looking south-west from Bembridge Fort, the sweeping curve of Sandown Bay opens out before you. Redcliff Battery was constructed on the cliff edge to protect the bay, but was always at risk of subsidence and was abandoned in 1891. Sandown had its own fort and battery, both built in the 1860s. The fort now houses the Island’s zoo, while the battery is set within a public garden. France is a mere 70 miles away – imagine how vulnerable you would feel to see the French fleet approaching...
End:
National Trust car park at Bembridge Fort, grid ref: SZ625859
