Down on the Duver
A short but varied coastal walk exploring St Helens Duver, a sandy spit of land on the eastern tip of the Island, rich in wildlife and history.
Map
Elevation
Start:
St Helens Duver National Trust car park, grid ref: SZ637892
1
Leave the National Trust car park by following the hedge to the left of the interpretation panel and parking meter (for non National Trust members) and go on up the sandy path by the green dog bin. Cross the grass and go on over the road, aiming for the boats in Bembridge Harbour. Bembridge Fort is on the skyline.
The Duver
Duver (pronounced ‘duvver’) is the local name for a stretch of sand by the sea. Sea currents deposited sand and shingle at the mouth of the River Yar over many years. The stabilised sand dunes now provide an unusual habitat for an amazing 250 species of flowering plants. There are bright displays of thrift in May and the Duver is also home to rare clovers and autumn squill with its lilac-coloured bell-like flowers.
2
Turn right at the water’s edge then follow the raised Causeway path between the lagoons and around buildings to Mill Quay. Take the first tarmac road on the right by Mill House. Go up the hill to the top, passing caravans on both sides.
Bembridge Harbour
The Harbour as we see it today was created in 1880 when an embankment was built across the entrance to Brading Haven. Before that there had been several ambitious but unsuccessful attempts to drain the estuary known as Brading Haven to create farmland. The embankment was topped by a railway branch line which brought prosperity to the area, but this was closed in the 1950s. Today Bembridge Harbour is primarily used for recreational sailing and fishing.
3
Bear right along the bottom edge of St Helens Green, claimed to be one of the largest village greens in England. Bear right again at the end, then carry straight on into Duver Road when the main road swings sharply left at a bend.
Smugglers
In days gone by, smuggling was rife along the coast of the Isle of Wight and St Helens was no exception. One of its most famous smugglers was Dickie Dawes, a fisherman by day, who ran the gauntlet of the customs men through a narrow channel to land his contraband of brandy, silk and tobacco. The booty would often be hidden beneath tombstones in the churchyard of St Helens Old Church before being brought inland along secret passages believed to lead to the village.
4
Just before some traffic lights, turn right onto a path by an interpretation panel (signed R88 to the Duver) which leads past St Helens Common. This is the Gaggen Path, which gets its name from press gangs which used to hide here and then gag their victims. Go down the path to the end.
St Helens Common
To the north of the Duver lies St Helens Common where much of the scrub has been cleared to open up splendid views over the Duver. It was given to us in the 1920s - a memorial stone half way down the Gaggen path commemorates this. Our black Hebridean sheep help restore the land to its original condition as a flower rich grassy common. Orchids flower in early summer, and winter heliotrope later in the year. Look out for blackcap in the scattered bushes.
5
Upon reaching the Duver by a wooden bridge, follow the path behind the interpretation panel round to the left and meander along to the Old Golf club building. Bear left behind the club house to meet the access road, then briefly left and right to reach the sea beside St Helens Old Church, where there are picnic benches.
Royal Isle of Wight Golf Club
The grassy area of the Duver was once home to the Isle of Wight Golf Club. Opened in 1882, it was the first golf club on the Island and one of the first in England. The 9 hole course attracted a number of celebrity players including Queen Victoria’s eldest son Bertie and youngest daughter Beatrice, Prime Minister Arthur Balfour and later the actor David Niven. The land was presented to us in 1961 and the clubhouse is now let as a National Trust holiday cottage.
6
Follow the sea wall to the right. Take the first gap to the right after a long line of beach huts made from old railway carriages (just after number 28) and turn inland through the dunes. Bear right by the National Trust omega sign and return to the car park by steps.
St Helens Old Church
The Old Church was built on the sand of the Duver in the 14th century and dedicated to St Helena from whom the village takes its name. The Benedictine community which it served disbanded in the 15th century and the church gradually fell into disrepair. It deteriorated further when limestone rocks acting as sea defences were used to construct a new embankment. Stones from which the church was built were also removed. Today only the tower remains, painted white as a seamark for shipping.
End:
St Helens Duver National Trust car park, grid ref: SZ637892
