Isle of Wight

Down on the Duver circular walk

Teasels and other spring wildflowers bloom by St Helens lagoon at low water — The path by the lagoon on the fringes of St Helen’s Duver | © National Trust / Chuck Eccleston ARPS

A short but varied coastal walk exploring St Helens Duver, a sandy spit of land on the eastern tip of the Island that is rich in wildlife and history. The gentle circular route passes Bembridge Harbour, the historic Isle of Wight Golf Club and the village of St Helens with its famous Old Church. Keep an eye out for a wide variety of birdlife along the way, from waders in the harbour to whitethroats, wheatears, chiffchaffs in the dunes.

Near to

St Helens Duver

Start point

St Helens Duver National Trust car park, grid ref: SZ637892

Trail information

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Difficulty*

Accessibility**

Full trail

DistanceMiles: 1.6 (km: 2.56)

Duration1 hour to 1 hour 20 mins

Dog friendly***

*Difficult terrain with some mild gradients. For further details, please see Terrain section.
**Uneven footpaths and some steps. For further details, please see section marked Access.
***Dogs welcome. For further details, please see section marked Facilities.

Address
National Trust car park, St Helens Duver, Isle of Wight, nearest postcode PO33 1XY
Directions via Google Maps
By bus
Hourly No. 8 service (Southern Vectis) from Newport and Ryde (01983 827000). Alight at St Helens village green on B3330. The Duver is a ½ mile (800m) walk down the Duver Road or the path beside St Helens Common.
Visit Southern Vectis website
On foot
This trail meets the Isle of Wight coastal path between St Helens Duver and Seagrove Bay.
Cycling
'Round the Island' National Cycle Network regional route 67 passes ½ mile (800m) from the start of the trail.
Visit Round the Island cycle route website
By ferry
Fishbourne to Portsmouth (Wightlink, tel: 0871 376 1000) 7 miles (11km).
Visit Wightlink website
East Cowes to Southampton (Red Funnel, tel: 0844 844 9988) 11 miles (18km).
Visit Red Funnel website
Bembridge Harbour has moorings for private boats.
By road
The start point is half a mile from the B3330 Seaview to Bembridge road, east of St Helens Green, 5 miles (8km) south west from Ryde on A3055 and B3330 and 4.5 miles (7km) north west of Sandown on the A3055 and B3330. The nearest postcode PO33 1XY.
Total stages: 6
Total stages: 6
Start point
St Helens Duver National Trust car park, grid ref: SZ637892
Stage 1
Leave the National Trust car park by following the hedge to the left of the interpretation panel and parking meter, and go on up the sandy path by the green dog bin. Cross the grass and go on over the road, aiming for the boats in Bembridge Harbour. Bembridge Fort is on the skyline.
The Duver
Duver (pronounced ‘duvver’) is the local name for a stretch of sand by the sea. Sea currents deposited sand and shingle at the mouth of the River Yar over many years. The stabilised sand dunes now provide an unusual habitat for 250 species of flowering plants. There are bright displays of thrift in May, and the Duver is also home to rare clovers and autumn squill with its lilac-coloured, bell-like flowers.
The grassy areas of St Helens Duver were once fine golf links | © National Trust / Chuck Eccleston ARPS
Stage 2
Turn right at the water’s edge then follow the raised causeway path between the lagoons and around buildings to Mill Quay. Take the first tarmac road on the right by Mill House. Go up the hill to the top, passing caravans on both sides.
Bembridge Harbour
The Harbour as we see it today was created in 1880 when an embankment was built across the entrance to Brading Haven. Before that there had been several ambitious but unsuccessful attempts to drain the estuary known as Brading Haven to create farmland. The embankment was topped by a railway branch line which brought prosperity to the area, but this was closed in the 1950s. Today, Bembridge Harbour is primarily used for recreational sailing and fishing.
Stage 3
Bear right along the bottom edge of St Helens Green, claimed to be one of the largest village greens in England. Bear right again at the end, then carry straight on into Duver Road when the main road swings sharply left at a bend.
Stage 4
Just before some traffic lights, turn right onto a path by an interpretation panel (signed R88 to the Duver) which leads past St Helens Common. This is the Gaggen Path, which gets its name from press gangs which used to hide here and then gag their victims. Go down the path to the end.
St Helens Common
To the north of the Duver lies St Helens Common, where much of the scrub has been cleared to open up splendid views over the Duver. It was given to the National Trust in the 1920s, and a memorial stone halfway down the Gaggen Path commemorates this. A flock of black Hebridean sheep help restore the land to its original condition as a flower-rich grassy common. Orchids flower in early summer, and winter heliotrope later in the year. Look out for blackcap in the scattered bushes.
Stage 5
Upon reaching the Duver by a wooden bridge, follow the path behind the interpretation panel round to the left and meander along to the Old Golf Club building. Bear left behind the clubhouse to meet the access road, then briefly left and right to reach the sea beside St Helens Old Church, where there are picnic benches.
Royal Isle of Wight Golf Club
The grassy area of the Duver was once home to the Isle of Wight Golf Club. Opened in 1882, it was the first golf club on the Island and one of the first in England. The nine-hole course attracted a number of celebrity players, including Queen Victoria’s eldest son Bertie and youngest daughter Beatrice, Prime Minister Arthur Balfour and later the actor David Niven. The land was presented to the National Trust in 1961 and the clubhouse is now let as a National Trust holiday cottage.
The Old Club House at St Helens Duver is now one of our holiday cottages | © National Trust / Sue Oldham
Stage 6
Follow the sea wall to the right. Take the first gap to the right after a long line of beach huts made from old railway carriages (just after number 28) and turn inland through the dunes. Bear right by the National Trust omega sign and return to the car park by the steps.
St Helens Old Church
The Old Church was built on the sand of the Duver in the 14th century and dedicated to St Helena, from whom the village takes its name. The Benedictine community which it served disbanded in the 15th century and the church gradually fell into disrepair. It deteriorated further when limestone rocks acting as sea defences were used to construct a new embankment. Stones from which the church was built were also removed. Today only the tower remains, painted white as a seamark for shipping.
End point
St Helens Duver National Trust car park, grid ref: SZ637892
Trail map
Down On The Duver circular walk map | © Crown copyright and database rights 2015 Ordnance Survey
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