Climbing lovers in Llŷn
Llŷn has always been something of an esoteric location for climbers wishing to scale its mighty sea cliffs. Revel in some of the finest coastal scenery and wildlife habitats in North Wales and enjoy breathtaking views.
Rock climbing in Llŷn is serious business with the cliffs of Cilan Head having a particular aura in the climbing world.
This special place offers cutting-edge climbing at its purest for those with experience, skill and nerve. Many of its routes, such as ‘Vul-ture’ and ‘Path to Rome’, are regarded as some of the best of their type in Britain.
Bouldering on the other hand is more accessible. It's a form of climbing where the challenge is difficulty rather than getting to the top.
Over the last 10 years, the popularity of bouldering has boomed in North Wales and it’s now just as popular as its ‘roped up’ sibling.
Have a go and you’ll experience a style of climbing that emphasises power, strength and dynamics. The focus is on individual moves or short sequences of moves.
Without the safety of ropes, the boulderer tries to climb a boulder (up to 20 feet) with bouldering mats (crash pads) and friends acting as spotters to protect the likely fall.
The bouldering spot
At Porth Ysgo, a couple of miles from Aberdaron, you’ll find a unique collection of sea-washed gabbro boulders which are widely regarded as some of the best in Britain.
An increasing number of sites have been developed on Llŷn. The boulders found all along the coast and hillside of Mynydd Penarfynydd are of particular note.
The complexity of boulder problems on this peninsula does tend to attract the more experienced climber but there are plenty of great locations for novices to try. Make sure you bring your friends as spotters and plenty of mats as the landings are rocky and uneven.
Climb the classics
More accessible traditional rock climbing routes can be found on Mynydd y Graig in Rhiw and the quarries on the Abersoch side of Mynydd Tir y Cwmwd at Llanbedrog.